When I first moved to Barcelona two years ago, the Born was a place where I got lost. Ach, I got lost everywhere – and still do due to my shocking spatial awareness and aversion to maps. Yet without a doubt the Born was the place I got the most lost in: a labyrinth of streets winding here, there and blooming well everywhere. Since moving to the area a few months ago, however, I have grown to love it. Repeated wrong turnings have led me to discover a place where, genuinely, all is within reach. Whether or not it is officially more pedestrianized than other zones, I do not know, but it certainly feels like it.
Now, navigating anywhere on an empty stomach is a nightmare and should be avoided at all costs. Those familiar with sense of direction and/or humour failure when sugar levels are down, this is for you – a checklist of key spots to refuel after your trip to the Picasso Museum, the beautiful Santa Maria del Mar, to the chic shops, or after having simply wandered round its windy streets. This essential list has been given the nod of approval by other Born-based friends and guarantees both a treat for the taste buds and the general sense of satisfaction in not having dithered about.
Bormut
1. Bormut
Top of the list is the much beloved Bormut (this was one of the first places I came to two years ago and adored but, forgetting its name, only ever managed to stumble upon it once again by accident before I moved to the area). Bormut (Plaça Comercial 1) is right opposite the old market and has a bustling and warm atmosphere, and hearty tapas. Food and drink are superb value and it’s good to go to any day of the week.
2. Hoffman bakery and cafe
Tucked away on one of the side streets off Paseo del Born is the Hoffman bakery (Carrer dels Flassaders 44). Their heavenly croissants are considered the best in the region and second best in the country. Raspberry, mascarpone, chocolate (with port!) and mango are amongst the favourites and cost two euros or less. Enjoy your breakfast of afternoon snack sitting on a bench out in the sun or continue a few metres up the street to the Hoffman café in the La Seca Espai Brossa theatre space (Carrer dels Flassaders 40).
Mosquito
3. Mosquito
A name that buzzes around your ears as much as the real things here in summer, and reasonably so as their exotic tapas are delicious. Mosquito (Carrer de Carders 46) has a fantastic mix of Thai food; local, Belgian, German, Dutch and Scottish craft beer; as well as lots of soft drinks. And it’s cheap! Do expect a queue, but you won’t be disappointed.
4. NAP (Neapolitan Authentic Pizza)
If you fancy pizza, look no further than NAP (Carrer de Gombau 5). Once you’ve ordered, your pizza will be in front of you faster than any other pizza place you’ve been to. They also do take away (just as quick) and home delivery. The restaurant, which has a traditional stone bake oven, is always busy because as well as being very tasty, NAP’s pizzas are also incredibly well priced.
La Morelia
5. La Morelia
La Morelia (Plaça Comercial 7), known to many simply as the Argentinian place, offers an amazingly good value lunchtime menu from 1pm – 4pm Mondays to Fridays. For twelve euros ninety you get a cracking steak as part of a three-course meal with a drink included. Non-meat eaters, the salads, pasta and risotto included in the deal are good too.
Just a coffee? Here are my favourite places for a pit stop:
Palau Musica Catalana
Top choice: L’Antic Teatre (Carrer de Verdaguer i Callís 12) has a lovely green open space that is out of sight from the streets.
For peace and quiet, go to el Bar del Convent (Plaça de l’Acadèmia), which used to be a convent.
Architecture lovers, head to Palau de la Música Catalana (Carrer Palau de la Música 4-6) concert hall, where you can enjoy the Modernist style ceiling.
El Magnifico
For coffee to go, El Magnífico (Carrer de l’Argenteria 64).
Serious coffee connoisseurs, Nomad is the place for you (Passeig Sert 12). Note that it closes earlier than most cafes (5.30pm).
Lastly, for the lovers… l’Arc de Triomf
L’Arc de Triomf is on the edge of Born and full of life. What strikes you most about the big open space lined with palm trees is the variety of folk you’ll find there – and the smell of soap as there is usually a man making giant bubbles. You’ll see people on roller-blades weaving in and out of cones like pros, no doubt a musician or two strumming on their guitar and singing or beating a drum, brake dancers practicing together, picnickers, and a steady flow of runners. Animal lovers, you will enjoy the exotic birds flying overhead. The red brick arch is also a truly beautiful piece of architecture and worth admiring. Right opposite is Arc de Triomf tube and train station, making it a good (and rather romantic) meeting point.
Happy exploring and happy eating!
